Watch my total drywall coaching at http://www.howtohangdrywall.org Understand how to hang drywall on your remodel undertaking. This video discusses hanging drywall…
Video Rating: four / five
You will see me use a drywall lift to set up a 4’x12′ sheet of drywall on the ceiling. This drywall lift allows me to make this a a single person occupation.
WE never stop learning! Thanks for the info!
Personal preference. Some use a hatchet, some use a hammer…whatever works best for you.
why are you using framing hammers ? should be using drywall hatchet.
Green glue is a sound proof. It’s like 14$ per tub and we use it green drywall sound proof also 2 dry walls glue it together like a sandwich
Not sure what “green glue” is? No we are using Drywall adhesive from Home Depot.
are you using green glue?
Your welcome. Were here to help anyway we can.
To keep your “Butt Joints” as short and as possible. This make finishing your drywall much easier when you you get to that stage of the project.
wheres the video of yall cutting out the area with the outlet boxes are…I wanted to see that
why do you have to stager the drywall?
Remove the foil from the stud faces exposing the lumber face and keep the insulation in the walls and you should be good to go!
Good video…very informative!
I do have a question, I’m in the process of finishing my basement and I’m almost ready for drywall. I built my home about 8 years ago and studded and insulated the basement at that time. In addition to the insulation I installed foil over the top. What do you suggest I do (take it down or install the drywall over the top)? The issue I see is with glue application step you suggest. What are your thoughts?
Thanks
Great video! T Square. Thanks for the info for a true novice.
You can do it either way. But it’s easier to build the wall while it’s laying on the floor and then just stand the wall up, position it, and then fasten it already built into place.
if you’re building a wall to split one room into two, do you have to build the frame first then lift it up, or can you just build the frame into the walls/floor/ceiling?
Actually we stagger out butt joints to make the finishing easier.
Instead of an 8′ continuous butt joint that goes from the ceiling all the way to the floor (which would be very hard to finish and hide) we only have a 4′ butt joints every so often which are easier to hide when we are in the finishing stage of the project.
this helps distribute the weight of the s/rock more randomly as to not to creat stress on one stud once the weight of the mud goes on hopefully my answer helps . good job fellas
Help! Where’s part 2? This is invaluable! Thanks 🙂
I actually have all 5 drywall videos in sequential order in the drywall playlist series right here on my YouTube Channel Page.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Eddie
Hey nice video! Just one suggestion, put a link to part 2 at the end of your video to make it easier to find,
Thank you
Hello! Yes keep you board at least 1/2 up off the floor to avoid “wicking moisture”.
Tapered edges are the edge of the board that go from 1/2″ thickness to around 3/8″ thickness. Drywall is manufactured this way so when you put a tapered edge up against another tapered edge there is a 1/8″ recessed area in which to “tape” your drywall seams. This tapered edge permits the tape to “recessed into the drywall to make the finishing stage of the drywall easier to conceal the tape joint!
Does the drywall go all the way and touch the floor or should it be slightly above? Also this may sound stupid but what do you mean “tapered edge”
ahhh.. good thinking..
Hey Jason. We always use it, and YES it does make the job stronger. But mostly we do it to prevent “nail and screw pops”.
Does that mean it is massively difficult? 🙂
Another question – room corners, how do any gaps (if any) get filled. Im thinking of doing the celings/walls as ive said, and maybe get a finisher in to complete.
I wish you success. It might not be as easy as it looks though. lol
lol that’s why I’m going bald. I love the drywall lift.
Guy’s good also think of all the bald spots on heads that thing can prevent!!
is it as easy as it looks? Im having a house built to lock up stage next year and want to do ceilings and walls/cornices/skirting myself.
I never glue my drywall to the studs. Screws are plenty good to do the job.
Would running a bead of adhesive on the studs be recommended ?
Cool.
Yes I do install the ceilings before the walls. This way if there is a gap between the ceiling and the walls in the corner, the sheet pushed up on the wall closes the gap.
Do you do the ceiling before you do the walls?
Go for it. I wish you success.
Thank you! I wish you all the success in the world. If you have problems, don’t be afraid to ask questions. Let me know how it works out for you.
Thank you so much for your drywall videos! I’m about to undertake my first drywall job in my basement that I’m finishing. Your videos have taught me so much about what I should be doing and how to do it. I have watched all your videos several times to get all this stuff to sink in and, while I know you make it look a lot easier than it actually is, I’m cautiously optimistic that I will be able to do a good job because of them! Thank you again!!
Thank you. I’ll do my best.
I love to see all your vid’s everybody know when the experience workers show up…
Awsome videos keep them post and continue the jorney man…
Congrats.
You are correct. I’m trying to mostly help the amateurs. Most professionals already have everything figure out. I personally would like to learn the techniques of tapers internationally. That would be of benefit to me too. I still learn new tricks from pro tapers .Thanks again for your input.
Awesome info thanks! I will give it a shot!
Here’s an observation. I get the impression that you’re trying to make videos that you’re aiming to be useful to rank amateurs. Your videos do indeed serve that purpose, but I personally think that your videos are even more useful to professional tapers than they are to amateurs. I’m deliberately trying to blend North American methods with British methods and your videos have benefited me greatly to do just that. Thanks.
Thank you very much. I hope that what you see here benefits you in some way. I wish you success.
Thanks Laurier. You’re definitely top notch at imparting your knowledge as a drywall guy to others and you obviously do a darned good and honest job for those who hire your services. Your videos are hugely useful to me personally because I’m trying to get my mind around North American methods and yours are by far the best on YouTube. I expect to be recommending your YouTube videos to many potential clients who try to hire me to teach them how to tape and mud.
I am sorry but I only know the plaster of paris by that name. It comes in quickset and slow set form. Yes I do use the sheetrock 90 once in a while. It allows me to do 3 coats on a room in one day. The sheetrock 90 starts setting in about 60 to 70 minutes. Thanks for getting back to me.
Thank you. I like hearing from other pro tapers. I do have a mixer and I do at times mix my mud or like you said take a 4″ knife and mix the top 2″ or 3 “. Feel free to address questions or concerns of any of my subscribers. I welcome advice and input of other professional tapers if they are being helpful.
I hope I don’t end up inadvertently misleading you, but here’s what I suggest you should do. Bare in mind that some mudders like to use different consistency (or wetness of mud for different parts of the process. you could try mixing water into only the top inch or half inch of compound in your box/bucket so that you leave the bulk of the compound undisturbed. I use a tool called a gauging trowel to do that, but you could easily use the smallest smoothing knife you’ve got. I hope this helps.
I tied adding a tiny bit of water to the premixed compound, but at that time, I didn’t have any better results. I’m thinking you still might be on the right track though… next time I do it (in a couple weeks), I will give that a shot. Thanks!
Laurier: A few days ago I asked you a question about the specific make of plaster of Paris you use. Your answer wasn’t satisfactory but I’m pretty sure the communication difficulty was my fault. Sorry about that. I’m thinking of going for Sheetrock setting type 90 minute compound because I kind of get the impression that it’ll be kind of similar to the plaster that I used to use in Scotland. I’d be interested to hear any thoughts you might have regarding sheetrock 90 if you’ve previously used it